5.  Keep over the counter pet meds on hand just in case of an emergency.
The number one tip that I can give you is to educate yourself on dog health. Different dog breeds have different health problems. Some dog breeds have problems with the seizures. While other dog breeds can have problems with their joints and bones. Getting an information resource on dog health is something that every responsible dog owner should do. Not only can they help you with the major problems associated with some dog breeds. They can also help you with the every day, minor ailments that every dog owner will face from time to time.
Educating yourself on dog health with the good information found on the World Wide Web will help you from taking unnecessary trips to the vet. This equals into saving you a lot of money from unnecessary vet bills.

Dogs can, however, show signs of aging as early as seven years old. Older dog health problems generally affect larger breeds earlier than small breeds that tend to show signs of aging around 10 to 12 years of age. The fact is that senior dog health problems will eventually be a concern for every dog owner.

Common Health Problems Facing Older Dogs

All dogs are different and, depending on their size, breed and activity level, will exhibit health problems differently. However, there are common health issues that may manifest in all senior dogs including the following:

Joint and bone problems
-An overall reduction in their metabolism
-Difficulty with their eyes and ears
-Liver and kidney dysfunctions
-Skin becomes thin and less pliable while the coat becomes mottled and patchy
-Problems with teeth and gums

Unlike a little puppy who has an endless supply of energy, an older dog will tend to slow down and take longer to lay down or stand up. Instead of bounding up the stairs your senior dog might take each stair one at a time.

Your dog may develop arthritis, an inflammation of the joints causing pain and discomfort, which is generally the cause of this slowing down. There are a host of anti-inflammatory drugs that your veterinarian can suggest to reduce the discomfort caused by arthritis.

In many cases, an older dog will have problems with their eyes as they develop cataracts or even glaucoma. A cataract will become obvious to the owner as the eyes have a cloudy appearance and tend to reflect light. Senior dogs may also develop glaucoma, an increased amount of pressure on the eyes, and can cause more serious problems if left untreated.

The entire circulation system and many of the major organs are taxed in older dogs. The heart, lungs, liver and kidneys all become less efficient and the immune systems can become weak and vulnerable to viruses and bacteria.

Serious health problems may develop in your senior dog as some of the symptoms develop gradually. It is your responsibility to maintain your older dog’s health and remain informed of the possible senior dog health problems that commonly arise.

Helping Your Older Dog Overcome Health Problems

As an aging dog inevitably develops health problems, you can help alleviate many of the symptoms and keep your pet comfortable. The most basic thing you can do is simply pay more attention to your senior dog making sure you’re aware of the changes taking place. Brush your dog’s coat daily and ask your vet if there are special shampoos to help with her skin and coat. Spend time rubbing your hands on his coat feeling for bumps or lesions.

Be patient when your dog needs a little extra time walking up the stairs or jumping up into the car. Make sure you make regular visits to your vet and stay current on vaccinations. Brush your senior dog’s teeth regularly and have them professionally cleaned occasionally. Provide regular exercise while also making adjustments needed for your dog as she ages.

As your older dog slows down, you might have to adjust her diet to help compensate for the reduction of energy for both her weight as well as her coat and her circulation system.

Not only must the overall calorie intake be reduced, but you can also feed your senior dog specially formulated foods made to fit their particular needs. Try to purchase the most expensive, best quality food you can afford and avoid greasy table scraps.

It’s an inevitable fact that dogs age, but you can make a difference in helping your older dog overcome health problems. Keep in mind that in the last eighty years or so the average lifespan of dogs has increased from 7 years to 12. Expanding your knowledge and paying attention to your dogs health will help ensure your dog lives a long and comfortable life.

To maintain the pet cats for keeping them clean and fit can be trickier than handling the pet dogs as the cats tend to roam out of the home a lot. It is a natural phenomenon that cats are keen on keeping themselves clean and do the simple licking activities to remove the dirt on them. But in the case of fleas, the pet cats become helpless and one needs to use the right flea meds such as Frontline plus cats’ products, available in the market.

The Frontline plus cats products are one among the most reliable brands purchasable as they are both safe and highly effective in eliminating the problems caused by fleas to the pet cats. At PetMedsSource.com, one can come across the top products and flea meds such as Frontline plus cats/dogs at much affordable prices as they offer heavy discounts. With the advent of online stores, the shopping of Frontline plus cats’ products has become more comfortable and comparable, thus helping one find the right products among those available to make the best deals. There is a range of products to meet the specific needs of the pets, especially the Frontline plus cats’ or dogs’ products.

What are Frontline plus Cats’ Products?

The Frontline plus cats’ products are the long-lasting flea meds for killing the ticks and fleas present on the pet cats. It has several advanced chemicals and the right combinations to kill the fleas once for all and make sure that the problems do not reoccur. Another noteworthy fact is that these Frontline plus cats’ products begin their action soon after they are applied on the pets and it has easy application procedures too. But one may worry if the Frontline plus cats’ flea meds applied on the pets will harm the animal; the answer is ‘No’ as many vets worldwide suggest these Frontline plus cats’ and dogs’ products to be safe on both the human and animals.

The chances of the Frontline plus cats’ flea meds being washed away is much reduced as they are carefully crafted to be waterproof. Though some may use the dogs’ products on the pet cats, applying the flea meds such as Frontline plus cats’ products targeting the nature and needs of the cats exclusively will be more effective. The lesser availability of the cat products when compared to the entities purchasable for the pet dogs may prompt many to classify the pet cats under the dog category while shopping. Cat owners have no more to worry as the Frontline plus cats’ products are readily sold via the online shopping and websites of PetMedsSource.com.

The effects of the Frontline plus cats’ products are visible almost within a day when one can find the dead ticks and fleas along with their larvae or eggs. Thus one can take care of their pet cats in the present and also ensure its proper maintenance in the near future.

Even if you’ve got the most easy-care dog in the world, she’ll still need some attention to be paid to her appearance every once in a while – so it’s worth spending a bit of time learning the best techniques for easy, stress-free grooming.

Here is some of the valuable advice I got from one of my favorite sites for dog health care solutions

WHY SHOULD I BOTHER GROOMING MY DOG?

Not so long ago, the average American’s approach to canine grooming was somewhat cavalier. Dogs were seen as something that lived in the yard (usually in a dusty, hard-floored kennel), ate whatever was put in their bowls, and existed as a sometime-playmate for the household’s children.

Today, we tend to care for our dogs a lot more, and view them more as members of the household than the Thing in the Yard.

Ever since this rise in the estimation of our beloved pooches became widespread, grooming has been increasingly recognized as an important facet of your dog’s regular health-care. It ensures that any skin-care problems are minimized (because grooming distributes the natural skin-oils evenly throughout the coat), and assists you in monitoring your dog’s overall condition – if you groom on a regular basis, you can’t help but notice the presence of any unusual lumps or bumps.

This preventative action has saved many a canine life. Our dogs can’t tell us where it hurts, but taking just a little bit of time every so often to check them over ourselves can save a lot of grief in the long run.

The trick is getting your dog to tolerate (and even enjoy!) the process …

THE FIRST STEP IN THE GROOMING PROCESS

Something that many owners lack experience in is how to wash their dogs. Dry-grooming (brushing and ‘buffing’ the coat) seems to present little problem for most people; the rot tends to set in when water is introduced to the mix.

Most dogs have a strong dislike of being bathed, and in many cases will become utterly panic-stricken when the tub comes out.

This article is going to deal with the basics of how to wash your dog in a way that’ll keep both of you relaxed and happy.

PREPARING YOUR DOG FOR GROOMING

First of all, the absolute most important thing you can do is to accustom your dog to the grooming process. Now, starting this in puppyhood is the ideal way to handle the situation, but of course not all of us have this luxury; if you’ve got an adult dog, you’ll probably need to move a little slower, but you should still start getting her used to being touched and handled all over as soon as you can.

As your puppy or dog gets used to the sensation of being rubbed and handled, she’ll slowly come to enjoy it. Dogs are social creatures by instinct, and physical affection and contact is a big part of their lives – it shouldn’t take long before she begins to trust you, and allows herself to get some pleasure out of your touch.

All you have to do is start rubbing her slowly all over. Fondle her ears, touch her cheeks and neck, rub her back and belly, pick up her paws and – if she’ll let you – give each one a gentle squeeze (treating and praising her whenever she lets you do this, since paw touching is generally a pretty big deal for most dogs). If she has a tail, rub it between your fingers; get her to roll over on her back so you can rub and stroke her belly and hocks.

This might not seem like such a big deal, but it’s actually a really important part of the grooming process: the more your dog enjoys it, the less stressful the whole event will be for both of you, and so the more often you’re likely to groom her – which increases the health benefits for her.

HOW TO WASH YOUR DOG

Bathing always comes before dry-grooming, since it makes brushing and trimming a lot easier as well as a lot more effective (there’s not much point in brushing a tangled, dirty coat!)

You will need some basic tools: a tub, a non-slip mat, a plastic jug, some warm water, a small sponge, and some canine shampoo (not human shampoo: the pH is all wrong for dogs, and will give her dry and flaky skin.)

Stand her in the tub, on the non-slip mat. If she’s a large or unruly dog, you may want to wash her outside to minimize mess – either that, or you can restrain her by tying one end of a light nylon leash to her collar, and the other end to the faucet.

Pour jugs of warm water all over her until she’s good and wet. This breaks down the grease in her fur, and ensures a thorough shampooing.

Mix a little shampoo with another jug of warm water, and rub it thoroughly into your dog’s fur. Start off with her back and rub it into a good lather (but don’t be too harsh!)

Now you can move on to her head and face. Be very careful here – dogs’ eyes are sensitive too, and if you get any water in her ears, she’ll probably get an ear infection. (You can plug her ears with a small twist of cotton wool to help stop this from happening, if you like.)

Remember to clean under her tail before you wash her off – dip the sponge into the shampoo mixture to do this properly.

Now it’s time to rinse: using the jug and some clean, warm, shampoo-free water, carefully tip it all over her and use your fingers to help disperse the lather from her coat. Rinse her off thoroughly at least twice, since any residue that remains will irritate her skin.

Now you’ll need to dry her off: if she’s got short fur, you can use a towel (an old one will do just fine, although big dogs generally need two); for dogs with longer fur, give her a gentle toweling-off first, and then use a hair dryer to get rid of the last dampness. Be certain that it’s set on low heat, and hold it far away from your dog’s fur to prevent burning either the skin or the fur.

KEEP YOURSELF CALM

Remember that most dogs have an inherent dislike of being bathed, which can cause anxiety and even outright panic.

Your dog takes a lot of her emotional cues from you, so make sure you act like a good role model for the occasion. Reassure your dog frequently, keeping your voice well-modulated, low, and even; keep your movements slow and deliberate; praise her lavishly for good behavior, and give her a couple of treats throughout the process to make it more enjoyable for her.

The more she enjoys the process, the easier it’ll be for you!

The heartworms in dogs can seriously prevent a dog’s heart from functioning properly. In worst cases, dog heartworms can cause blockage in the blood vessels. Dogs with heartworms tend to lose weight, have chronic coughing, be short of breath, develop chronic heart failure, have problems with their vision and eventually die.

Early Signs of Dog Heartworm

The signs or symptoms of dog heartworm are not the same for every dog, so the best coming to do is to take your dog to a veterinarian for proper diagnosis. Be aware that most dogs with heartworm problems tend to exhibit visible symptoms of the disease only when it is too late for it to be cured. Thus, when it comes to heartworms in dogs, early detection is important so that treatment for dog heartworms can be administered quickly.

Below are some of the early signs of dog heartworm. If your dog shows any of these dog heartworm symptoms, don’t hesitate to take him to your veterinarian.

* Your dog tends to get tired quickly and easily.

* Your dog often has to gasp for breath.

* Your dog starts coughing more often.

* Your dog, if it is a hunting dog, can’t keep up with the chases anymore and often falls from exhaustion.

* Your dog develops jaundice, experiences convulsions and have vision problems.

* Your dog becomes emaciated, a serious symptom of dog heartworm that is often followed by death.

What Dogs Can Become Infected by Dog Heartworms?

Years ago, it was believed that short-haired dogs were more prone to becoming infected by dog heartworms. The long-hair dogs were thought to be resistant to dog heartworms since the worm-carrying mosquitoes had a much more difficult time penetrating through their hair. However, this belief has been disproved. Both long-haired and short-haired dogs can become infected by dog heartworms since mosquitoes attack on a dog’s abdominal area. Both long-haired and short-haired dogs tend to have lesser hair in the abdominal area. In addition, the muzzle and ears are other areas where the infection can begin.

Treatment for Dog Heartworms

If detected early enough, dog heartworm can be treated using chemical therapy. Heartworm treatment is usually administered over a period of time. The heartworms are not killed in one fell swoop as the dead worms would end up being deposited into the lungs and kill the dog. In addition, the chemicals used to kill the heartworms in dogs can also be lethal to dogs. This is why any treatment for dog heartworms that involves the use of chemicals should only be administered by a veterinarian.

Apart from chemical therapy, surgery is also a treatment option for dog heartworm. However, surgery is only done if the veterinarian warrants this need and if it is the only option for curing the dog heartworm infection.

You can also prevent your dog from developing dog heartworms through medication. There are dog pills specifically designed to destroy the heartworms inside your dog’s body so that the worms do not grow into full-blown heartworm adults. However, dog heartworm medications will not keep your dog 100% heartworm-free. Your dog can still become infected with dog heartworm during mosquito season so you would still need to keep a close eye on your dog and watch out for the early signs of dog heartworms.

Heartworm medications, however, can cause complications if your dog is already infected with heartworms. Basically, the drugs won’t do your dog any good if the heartworm infection is already serious. In this case, your best and only option is to take your dog to a veterinarian who can prescribe the right medications for your dog as well as take some blood tests.

Preventing Dog Heartworms

Be aware that mosquitoes are the carriers of heartworms. Keep your dog from being bitten by mosquitoes, particularly if you live in a hotter region with a higher humidity level or if it’s mosquito season. Keep your dog’s sleeping area clean and screened. You can also use repellent sprays. Talk to your veterinarian and ask him if he can prescribe any preventative medication or heartworm medicine for dogs. If necessary, take your dog for regular blood tests to make sure that he does not have dog heartworm.

You need to be especially vigilant as the symptoms of dog heartworms are not easily and quickly visible. It is recommended that you take your dog to the veterinarian for a full check up once a year.

Among the heart worm, fleas and other parasites, the fleas produce the hyper sensitive reactions in the affected animals. Hence, the animals infested with fleas start severely scratching of body. Many times, the scratching is so severe and the skin becomes more hyperemic and dermatitis occurs in the affected areas.

Animal will not lie down or sleep comfortably due to the constant bites by the fleas. Hence, animal looks as if affected by some severe skin disease. If the animal is not properly attended for this tick bite problem, there will be often secondary bacterial invasions in these sites and there may even be a bad smell emanating from the skin areas.

Close observation of the dog is highly essential to rule out the occurrence of fleas disturbing the animal to a greater extent. Similarly, the skin of the animal needs to be tested for the presence of ticks, lice. For this, the hair materials need to be separated and the close observation with patience is required for the proper diagnosis.

In many incidences, if anemia is present, the blood protozoa need to be ruled out in addition to the hookworm problems. The clinical problems like anemia, loose motion, pot belly etc. might be recognized by the dog owners themselves and however, the dog needs to undergo the routine health related examination involving fecal examination, hematological examination and blood smear examination.

Many commercial products have come up in the market, which are useful to deal with all these conditions by single dose. Drugs like Revolution for dogs are highly useful and are available in both injection and oral form in addition to the solution form that can be applied on the skin. These drugs in dogs can lead to the prophylaxis of these conditions also.

They are undoubtedly effective as the cat Frontline plus products can kill the ticks and fleas present in any of the four stages of their life cycles. Most of the products in the markets assure only to destroy the existing fleas and ticks which will leave the chances open for the larvae and eggs to develop once again into fleas and repeatedly cause the problems. But with cat Frontline plus products, one can be sure that their pets are free from the troubles of fleas and ticks once and for all. Even if one is not sure about this commitment of the cat Frontline plus products, it must be noted that the cat Frontline plus products remain on the cats even after a month in spite of the cats being exposed to water. The combination of cat Frontline plus products to eliminate the flea eggs and their capacity to linger longer on the pets obviously ensure the added protection to the cats against the repeated attack of fleas and ticks.
While Purchasing the Cat Frontline Plus Products

As per the requirements and budget of the buyers, cat Frontline plus products are purchasable in three different packs of 3, 6, or 12 months supply. The cat Frontline plus products are not harmfully concentrated with chemicals and thus can be safely used even on the 8 weeks old kitties. They do not have any expiry date which enables the individuals to store the cat Frontline plus products for a longer duration. If individuals are under the impression that it is not quite important to maintain their pet cats without the fleas and ticks then it is high time they realized that the fleas can cause the Lyme disease and may also lead to the growth of tapeworms.

Over the years the process of treating or ridding your pet of any pests they may have, has risen to a science of destruction. We now know more than ever what it takes to not only disrupt a flea or tick life cycle but what products are best for every scenario we might confront.

Companies have developed a vast assortment of products to help us in our quest. This article will discuss topical treatments, sprays and mists, flea collars, shampoos, dipping products, flea combs and oral tablets. There are also repellents, desiccants, powders and foggers but are generally very specialized treatments, not recommend or very effective and will not be part of this discussion.

Where do you start and which Treatment Application is right for my situation? The best approach I think is to understand what each type of application is meant to do and when to use it. From there, selecting the right approach should be a lot easier than you might expect. We’ll go down the list one-by-one and see what they have to offer.

Topical Treatments

Topical treatments are applied to pet’s outer skin. The medication is applied directly behind the head between the shoulders. This stops the pet from licking off the medication once it is applied. It’s a quick application method from a single dose plastic applicator. They work well and are effective in a good Flea and Tick Control program.

These applications are designed to kill adult fleas within 24 hours. They also kills flea eggs and larvae to keep ALL stages of fleas from developing. Topical liquids also kill all stages of 4 major ticks, including the one which may carry Lyme disease. They stay waterproof and some can be used on puppies 8 weeks and older.

However, if you have more than one pet this might not be the best method. One pet might lick off the medication from another. I have this situation but my Min Pins actually sleep in a pet carrier at night so I put it on at bedtime and once they’re locked up I don’t have that issue. For those that can’t keep their pets separated, then a course of oral medication may be in order.

If you have young children in the house this type of treatment may not be a good choice either. When kids are at that stage of their lives when everything goes in the mouth, if they happen to touch the pet and get some of the meds on their hands they may wind up ingesting some of the meds. Again an oral medication may be appropriate to remedy this type of situation.

Flea & Tick Sprays and Mists

These are products administered from a spray bottle. Flea and Tick Spray can be used on dogs, cat, puppies and kittens to control fleas, ticks and flea larvae. They generally contain Insect Growth Regulator (IGR’s) and provide quick relief killing adult fleas and ticks on contact. It also continuously kills flea eggs laid on the animal, breaking the flea life cycle. Residual activity of the product prevents re-infestation. Fleas are killed within the first day. Sprays continue to work for up to one month. Use a spray when combating large areas of infestation.

Children in the house might cause you to think twice. The spray, although quite effective can get all over when they are used. Containing the spray to a very specific area is a noble gesture but impractical at best. If kids aren’t in the house then this is a great way to protect your pets and areas they inhabit.

Flea & Tick Collars

Flea and Tick Collars are available for dogs or cats. Collars come in several sizes specifically addressing the size of a pet’s necks. They are plastic and over time release insecticide to kill the fleas or ticks. They were developed in the early 1960’s and were an effective and practical treatment at the time. The downside is that their effectiveness tends to be more localized around the head area.

Although many dogs and cats tend to get “collar dermatitis” at the neck, they add an extra layer of protection keeping them away from their head especially if it is an outdoor pet.

Shampoos and Dips

Flea and tick dips are used when you need an immediate knockdown of fleas and ticks. They tend to be used on outdoor dogs that are infested. To effectively treat the pet you need to dip them in a solution up to their necks or sponge it all over their bodies. Not for use on cats. Dips have a residual smell and you probably don’t want that in the house.

Shampoos are another quick remedy for relieving your pet of ticks and fleas. They don’t have any residual prevention against these pests though. They do clean your animals quite well and effectively help with skin conditions. Read the product label for more details.

Flea Combs

A flea comb is a good pesticide-free method of removing fleas from your dog or cat. A flea comb works by catching the fleas in the very narrow gaps between the teeth or forcing them to jump off. Use a flea comb outside, and keep a container of soapy water nearby for drowning the fleas, or comb your pet in a bathtub where you can rinse the fleas down the drain. Start by running the comb gently through your pet’s coat. After each run through, dunk the comb in the water and leave any fur caught in the comb in the water. The soapy water will kill the fleas. Continue this procedure until the entire pet has been combed, making sure to comb their underside. A flea comb can be used every day when fleas are bad, and can help prevent fleas entering the house if used before the pet comes inside.

Oral Medications

These are chewable tablets for your pet. They have a short span of effectiveness usually 24 hours. People give them to their pets if going to a park or an area they may have a concern about having them get infested while walking them. They can be given daily to your pets.

Look at what your individual needs are in terms of a treatment plan for your pets. Once you know that and how bad the problem is hopefully this list gives you an idea of what treatment application will be most effective for your pet and their surrounding areas.

Brain Tumors

Brain tumors are occasionally responsible for causing dog seizures. Tumors can grow from brain tissues or spread to the brain from other organs in the body. If these tumors put pressure on the brain as they enlarge, it will cause dog seizures.

Distemper

Another cause of dog seizures is canine distemper. Distemper is a viral disease that can cause brain damage. This condition normally affects puppies at an age between three and eight months. Distemper can be transmitted via contact with urine, feces, saliva, and hands. It can also be transmitted through the air. Dog seizures caused by distemper usually occur two to three weeks after the dog has initially been exposed to the virus.

Toxins

One of the most common causes of dog seizures is the ingestion of toxins. Your dog may have a good chance of recovery after ingesting certain toxins, especially if detected quickly. However, other toxins have a poor prognosis. Common toxins that can cause dog seizures include paint chips, insecticides, chocolate, and rat poison.

Caution

When dogs have a long seizure, they are in danger of suffocating. However, you should never stick your hand in your dog’s mouth during an episode. Dogs sometimes uncontrollably clench their jaws and your can be seriously injured. In the case of dog seizures, it’s best to seek veterinary help if the episodes lasts more than two minutes or so.

External parasites are pretty common among dogs. A parasite is an organism that lives off the resources your dog has to offer: namely, fresh blood (which most parasites drink) and a warm place to stay (in and on the skin and fur).

What are the common parasites that might affect my dog?

There are a wide range of parasites that affect dogs:

- Fleas
- Ticks
- Mites
- Lice

All of these parasites cause adverse reactions in your dog: typically, itching and inflamed skin, a dull coat, and bald spots. In advanced cases, your dog may develop anemia (blood loss) and become generally debilitated (particularly if he or she is very young, very old, or suffering from another condition).

In addition to this, many parasites convey secondary and internal parasites to your dog – for example, fleas usually carry the common tapeworm (which causes constipation and flatulence), and ticks can cause a variety of much more serious problems like Lyme’s disease and paralysis.

I’m going to be looking at fleas: what they are, how to tell if your dog’s affected, and how to get rid of them.

A CLOSER LOOK AT FLEAS

Fleas are without question the number-one most common external parasite affecting dogs. They’re small, jumping insects that are light brown in color, although humans generally can’t see them – they move much too quickly for that!

Fleas live off your dog’s blood. The life cycle of a flea moves very rapidly from stage one (egg) to stage four (adult flea), which means they’re capable of multiplying with staggering rapidity.

An adult flea lays hundreds of eggs per day. Each egg will then become an adult flea, which lay hundreds more eggs of its own. One flea becomes a major problem very quickly!

HOW TO TELL IF YOUR DOG HAS FLEAS

The symptoms of a flea infestation are unmistakable.

A dog with a flea infestation will scratch almost constantly, often at areas that fleas seem to favor: the ears, the base of the tail, the belly, and the stifle (the webbing of soft skin between the thigh and the abdomen).

It’s actually the saliva of the flea that causes the irritation, not the bite itself, and some dogs have a genuine allergy to this saliva (as opposed to a standard irritation). Dogs with allergies suffer much more significant negative reactions to a flea infestation, and usually develop “hot spots”.

These hot spots are areas of sore, inflamed, flaking, bleeding, and infected skin, caused by the flea saliva and your dog’s own reaction to it. Bald patches will sometimes develop too, from repeated scratching and ongoing inflammation.

If you think your dog has fleas, you can confirm your suspicions by taking a closer look at his skin: you probably won’t be able to see the fleas themselves, but you should be able to see what looks like ground pepper (a thin sprinkling of fine black grains) on his skin. This is flea dirt (poop).

If you groom him with a flea comb (which is like a fine-tooth comb), try wiping it on a paper towel: if red blotches show up on the towel, you know that your dog has fleas (on a white background like a paper towel, flea poop shows up red: since fleas subsist on blood, their poop is colored accordingly).

TREATMENT FOR FLEAS

Because fleas only spend a small amount of time actually on your dog, and the rest of their time leaping through your house laying eggs and feeding on human blood, it’s not enough to just treat the dog: you also have to target his bedding, the entire house, all human bedding, and the yard (yes, fleas lay eggs all through the yard, too. Even if it’s cold outside, you’re not necessarily off the hook: cold weather doesn’t kill flea eggs, it just puts them into a state of hibernation. The eggs will hatch as soon as it gets warm enough outside.)

You’ll need a broad-spectrum treatment which kills not only the adult fleas (which are the ones that bite), but also any developing fleas, and the eggs.

PREVENTION IS THE BEST (AND THE EASIEST!)

Prevention is definitely the best cure – you should keep your dog’s flea treatments up to date with the use of a calendar, and use a treatment that’s prescribed by the vet. Off-the-shelf treatments aren’t recommended, since different dogs require different strengths depending on their size, age, and activity levels. Flea and tick control products such as frontline plus, k9 advantix are top recommended products to control fleas and ticks. A particular benefit of prescribed flea treatment is that most are also designed to prevent other parasites (like mites, ticks, and heartworm) from affecting your dog.

FOR AN EXISTING INFESTATION

If your dog already has fleas, you have two options:

1. You can ‘bomb’ the house and yard with a flea-pesticide. These come as foggers (which coat each room, and the yard, in a fine mist of pesticide) and sprays (which are applied manually to each surface throughout the house and yard), and although they’re very effective in killing fleas and eggs, there’s one major drawback: they’re highly toxic to humans, dogs, and the environment. Depending on your priorities, this is probably the quickest solution to a flea problem (and will effectively wipe out the eggs, too) but if you have anyone in the house with allergies or a health condition – including pets! – you might want to think again.

2. A more health-friendly alternative is to target the dog with a topical anti-flea solution prescribed by the vet (like Advantage or Revolution), and to rigorously clean the house on a regular basis until the flea problem has gone. This means vacuuming each room thoroughly each day – put a flea collar in with the vacuum bag to kill any fleas that get sucked up – and wash all human and dog bedding in hot water as often as you can (once every day or every two days is recommended). You’ll be able to tell when the problem’s gone because your dog won’t be scratching, and his coat will be clear of flea dirt when you inspect it.

WHAT NOT TO DO ABOUT FLEAS

– Don’t use multiple products on your dog – it’ll make him sick, since you’ll be overloading his system with toxins.
- Don’t forget to treat all the animals in the house at the same time: cat and dog fleas are interchangeable, and if one animal has fleas, they all will have them, even if some are not displaying the symptoms.
- Flea collars are no longer recommended as a safe option for flea prevention, since the collars are highly toxic – vets have realized that placing a toxic material directly against your pet’s skin for long periods of time (flea collars have to be worn 24/7 to be effective) is detrimental to your dog’s health.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PARASITES AND THEIR TREATMENT…

Fleas are just one of the many, many types of parasites that affect your dog. To find out more about the complete prevention and treatment of all types of parasites (external and internal), as well as a comprehensive guide to all aspects of dog health, take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.

This book is an invaluable resource for the responsible dog owner, and will help you to ensure that your dog remains happy and healthy – just the way you want him (or her) to be!